Malay artisans have been creating jewellery since the 17th and 18th century, mainly from silver and gold. Unlike Chinese or Indian jewellery, traditional Malay jewellery steers away from images of animals or human, in accordance to Islamic tradition. In its place are geometric motifs or stylised patterns of leaves and flowers. The use of gold jewellery in olden days, were limited to royalties, courtiers and wealthier Malay merchants. The most widely used pieces are the kerongsang, pending, cucuk sanggul, and dokoh.

The traditional Malay attire known as the baju kebaya necessitates the use of kerongsang. Kebaya of the olden days came without buttons down the front, and the kerongsang is used to pin the lapels of the kebaya together. Kerongsang usually comes in sets of three. The typical three-piece set comprises of a kerongsang ibu (mother piece) which is larger and heavier. The other two is called the kerongsang anak (child pieces) and is worn below the kerongsang ibu. More often than not, the three pieces that make up the kerongsang set is attached to each other with thin strands of gold or silver, but can be disconnected should the lady wish to wear just one piece of the kerongsang set as a brooch. The kebaya attire is completed with a dokoh - a traditional necklace set consisting of three or more flat plates of gold or silver attached to each other much like the kerongsang.

In the past, most Malay women possessed full heads of long, luxurious hair - considered an attractive feminine attribute a woman must have. The cucuk sanggul was used to hold up their long hair in a bun at the back of their heads. Though serving a practical purpose, on special occasions such as weddings, a more elaborate set of cucuk sanggul will typically adorn the bride. 

Although women may also don one, the pending is more typically regarded as part of a man's regalia. Pending is a large, intricately ornamented belt buckle worn around the samping (a skirt-like cloth worn by men) to complement their baju melayu. More than a practical piece of jewellery, the pending is a sign of wealth and status for men. Pending owned by a wealthier Malay dignitaries of old would often be studded with precious stones such as zamrud (emerald), delima (ruby) and nilam (sapphire).

Of the various traditional Malay jewelleries, the kerongsang is still widely used today. Although the style and material used for the modern kerongsang is different, kerongsang in sets of three are still popularly worn with the baju kebaya. Other traditional accessories such as the pending, cucuk sanggul and dokoh are normally only worn for special occasions, for example to accessorise the bride on her wedding day.

The most deserving candidate for traditional Chinese jewellery in Malaysia has got to be jade jewellery. Revered by the Chinese, jade had held court in the imperial dynasties of China long before the first diamond was even discovered and it has maintained that status symbol to a certain degree even today.

Jade is divided into two types; jadeites, harder and more rare, are used for jewellery; and Nephrites are softer and carved into ornaments. Chinese traditions hold that jade has the ability to ward off evil or bad luck. The older the jade, the higher its value because jade is said to take on a darker colour, with the green veins of colour spreading and growing bigger over time. This mysterious property gave rise to the jade being referred to as the 'living stone'.

Traditional jade jewellery used to be set in yellow gold, unaccompanied by other gems, unlike more modern designs. Round bead necklaces are common traditional accessories. Jade is very personal jewellery, often passed down through the generations, and holds strong sentimental value for its owner. Mothers pass down their pieces to their daughters or daughter-in-laws.

Jade pendants in the shape of a gourd are customarily given as a present to a newborn baby after its first month. The gourd symbolizes health, as it is used to keep medicines in olden days. The pendant may also be in the shape of the baby's Chinese animal zodiac. Other significant symbols carved into jade pendants include the traditional peach, symbolizing longevity, bat symbolising luck, the laughing Buddha symbolizing prosperity and generosity, and the pi or circle of life.

Though green is the colour most associated with jade, this precious stone also comes in a variety of colours - red, black, white, lavender and yellow. The difference in colour is a result of the presence of trace minerals, such as copper, which creates the red jade. Each colour is associated with special meanings - green for wealth, red for power, lavender for romance, white for purity, yellow for longevity.

It is said that fate plays a hand in a particular jade piece coming into possession by an individual. Unlike gold, which can be moulded and adjusted to fit the finger or wrist of its new owner, jadeite cannot be re-moulded. Therefore, even if a person comes across a jade bracelet or ring that she particularly likes, she still may not be able to own it if the size does not accommodate.

Unlike gold or diamonds, the value of a piece of jade depends neither on its weight nor size. Instead, three properties determine the worth of a jade piece - its tone (colour), texture (evenness of colour) and translucency. It takes an expert eye to be able to tell the difference between a good and an average jade piece. Even the colour green in jade pieces is varied - apple, imperial, pea, olive, and so on. Imperial jade, the highest quality and most valued grade, has a deeper emerald green colour, high translucency and minimal impurities. Those interested in owning a piece of jade jewellery are better off visiting jewellers that specialize in the precious stone.

Words by : Salmah Nur Mohamed
Photographs by : Roslee Md Ali