Right on the Thai border, Pengkalan Kubor is the immigration check point for this little used back route to Thailand. During the day, a large car ferry (50 sen for pedestrians) crosses the river over to busy Tak Bai in Thailand.

It's a tax-free zone, so the shopping is good if you know how to bargain -- electronic goods, houseware items, and clothes are popular items. The road from Kota Bharu passes through some of the most traditional villages in Kelantan.