Fed by more than 15 rivers and rapids, cradling some 340 permanent islands and designated as the new gateway to the National Park, at more than 2,600 square kilometres, this man-made lake and its surrounding reserve forest is 1.5 times larger than Singapore and is half the size of Penang island.

Enchanting is the first word that comes to mind when you first set foot in this place. The waters of Lake Kenyir are emerald green and still, a mirror reflecting the surrounding jungle. Here and there, branches of dead timber break through the surface, thrusting skywards, a reminder of the forest, which now lies submerged, like a ruined city of Pompeii. It's hard not to feel awed and a little intimidated by the enormity of this inland body of water, and the intangible fear of the unknown that might possibly be lurking underneath.

But once you overcome these first impressions, the sheer beauty of Lake Kenyir is evident - the bright green grasses covering flat islet banks; the diverse species of interwoven plants, shrubs and flowers, each unique, possessing its own wild and fragile beauty; the cool and diamond clear water of the rivers and waterfalls; and most of all, the meditative silence that surrounds you and sets your innermost thoughts free with a sudden clarity. Lake Kenyir is a place of solace.

Created nearly 20 years ago, with the completion of the Sultan Mahmud Hydro-Electric Power Plant, Lake Kenyir is now one of Terengganu's most precious eco-tourism destinations. Designated as the new gateway to the National park, Lake Kenyir is fed by more than 15 rivers and rapids, and cradles some 340 permanent islands. At more than 2,600 square kilometres, this man-made lake and its surrounding reserve forest is larger than the Republic of Singapore.

Pengkalan Gawi is the main gateway into Lake Kenyir, and the best place to arrange for boat transport and lodging. More than 10 different accommodation facilities are available in Lake Kenyir, not including campsites located near waterfalls and rivers. Lodgings such as Petang Island Resort, Musang Kenyir Resort and Kenyir Sanctuary Resort offer comfortable lodging, good food and plenty of privacy, perfect for honeymooners and families, while mobile boathouses such as the Bahtera Petang and camping sites, which offers more basic and less conventional lodging, are preferred by many of the anglers and groups of young holiday trippers here.

As dawn breaks, early morning mist covers much of the forest peaks, evoking vistas which has lent to the air of mystery for which the lake is famous. Pass by one of the boathouses or small fishing boats here, and you will find anglers with their lines already propped up, waiting for a bite. Half submerged timbers rising from the depth of the lake pinpoint the spots where kelah, toman, lampam and other freshwater fish in excess of 300 species, make their shelter. These are the very spots where anglers congregate to try their luck at catching the impressive toman which is said can weigh up to 30kg!

But there is more to Lake Kenyir than fishing and freshwater. Inland, the thick virgin primary forest jealously guards its own ensemble of natural attractions. More than 14 waterfalls can be found around Lake Kenyir, from majestic falls that drop 500 feet down, to series of cascading rapids. Some of these waterfalls are accessible via winding rivers that lead to the fall, while others can only be reached with a hike through the thick virgin forest. Estimated at about 130 million years old, this virgin forest holds the secret to some of the most rewarding trekking experiences.

Prior to construction of the dam, the area was prime habitat for elephants and other mammals. Lucky trekkers might still encounter the elusive fauna of Lake Kenyir. Whilst actual sightings of deer, wild boars, and macaques aren't common, the plentiful tracks left behind by these animals are evidence of their existence. One bold resident that can often be seen here is the wild otters that thrive on the abundance of fish here. These frisky mammals will pay no attention to onlookers as they bathe, play and bask upon the riverbanks. It is advisable to engage an experienced nature guide before going on a trek as they will not only ensure your safety, but will also impart knowledge on the flora and fauna native to Lake Kenyir.

Those seeking a more adventurous trekking experience can take up the challenge of hiking up one of eight major peaks in the area, the highest of which is Mount Chergau, which stands at more than 1,375m above sea level. But many are more keen on hiking up Mount Gagau, to claim the fame of having standing in three different states at once - a possible feat as the borders of Pahang, Terengganu and Kelantan culminates at its peak. Other inland attractions worth visiting include the Bewah and Taat limestone caves, located on the southern edge of Lake Kenyir. Archaeologists had previously discovered contents of relics including crude axes, tools and kitchen utensils within Taat cave, which attests to the existence of a colony in this area dating back to the Neolithic era.

On Sah Kecil island, some 8km from Pengkalan Gawi, another curious attraction beckons the visitor. Medicinal potions and herbal drinks are on offer here, freshly brewed by half-medicine men, half-researchers, stationed at the Herb Park. Over 200 species of medicinal plants and herbs are currently being cultivated here, including the tongkat ali which is purported to contain properties which can increase strength and virility. Over 100 more species of plants has been tagged for cultivation in the near future.

The apparent pride and dedication of those involved in developing this park is heartening. The four guides at the Herb Park will be more than happy to explain the medicinal properties of the various herbs and plants. They look forward to transforming the Herb Park into one of Kenyir's most famous attractions, looking into the possibility of developing a traditional spa facility, using age-old remedies concocted from medicinal herbs cultivated here. The combination of pristine natural surroundings and traditional spa holds much promise for this park.

The tranquility of Lake Kenyir is equivalent to that of an isolated, lakeside log cabin deep in the Alaskan forest - only tropical and more accessible. If ever there was a place for introspection, abundance of natural attractions and an air of mystery, Lake Kenyir has to be it. A place where poets and writers search for inspiration, where the greatest revelations comes not only from the great outdoors, but also from within.


HOW TO GET THERE:

Tasik Kenyir Express, a direct express bus service departs daily at 8pm from the Putra Bus Station, in KL. (Tel: 603-40444276). You can also catch any express bus service to Kuala Terengganu from the Putra Bus Station, then take a taxi to Lake Kenyir. Private Transport: From Kuala Lumpur, take the Karak Highway to the Jerangau-Jabor Highway, passing Ajil on the way to Kenyir. Alternatively, you can use the Karak Highway to get to Kuantan on the east coast, and take the coastal road through Kemaman, Dungun, Kuala Terengganu before reaching Kenyir.


Words by : Salmah Nur Mohamed
Photographs by : Roslee Md Ali